Jotting in the Gulf

It’s the second day of Ramadan and I must admit that I was a bit nervous coming into the holiday. The thought of refraining from food and especially drink in Dubai’s115 degree heat is enough to make one faint just thinking about it. Furthermore, since women are supposed to dress and behave particularly conservatively during the holiday, for the past week I’ve had scary daymares of security guards reprimanding me for unintentional fashion faux pas… A definite novice to the local customs and practices that surround Ramadan, my head’s been a swirl with logistical questions:

1. What does “conservative dress” really mean when the fashion victim at hand is not a Muslim?
2. Can I drink water at the gym? Are my Lululemon leggings too fitted? Is a tank top a total no-go?
3. What about my apartment’s pool? If it’s open, what exactly is respectable Ramadan swimming attire? Although not as scandalous as the string bikinis most women wear to sun around here, my Speedo for lap swimming isn’t exactly that conservative considering I often see women swimming in their abaya at the beach.
4. While driving should I cover my head with a scarf or wear a long black sweater to avoid attention?
5. Do I really have to fast?!

Two days in, based on observation and conversations with locals and expats, answers to the above questions are surfacing:

1. A) Conservative dress for non-Muslims: Skirts at least knee length are fine (pants, even better!), sleeves at least to mid bicep work (beyond the elbow, superb!), sandals (no problem!). B) Dress for Muslim women: abaya (see images here). According to my Muslim friend S (name removed for privacy), while some women choose not to wear an abaya the rest of the year, during Ramadan more wear the garment in observance of the holy month. C) I don’t notice a change in the way men are dressing, but if you are curious about the local male dress, click here.
2. The water at my gym is abundant… My boxing coach assured me that those who would be offended by the presence of the almighty H20 are most certainly not working out during daylight hours!
3. My apartment’s pool appears to be a Ramadan-free zone or something of the like as yesterday was most certainly an all out two-piece parade. (I guess going down to the pool in sunglasses, a black jacket and pants was a bit of overkill on my part. But hey, no need to offend folks in the elevator!)
4. As for driving, no special headgear is needed. That said, my recruitment consultant told me yesterday, one should avoid driving at all costs between the hours of 2 and 5pm. Because people leave work early and hungry during Ramadan, traffic and road rage are particularly prevalent.
5. Mandatory fasting? Not a chance! For non-Muslims that is… But, it is best not to eat in public out of respect for local customs. In fact, it is rather difficult to eat in public during daylight hours as most restaurants are closed until sundown. Even Starbucks is sacrificing profits in honor of this special month! Oh, and if you are curious about alcohol… all the liquor shops are closed for the month (Note 1: In general, to drink alcohol at home in Dubai, expats need a liquor license. Once one is granted, they are given a specific ration in terms of how much can be purchased. Note 2: There is absolutely zero tolerance for drinking and driving here. If any alcohol is found in the driver in question’s bloodstream, punishment can be quite severe. Note 3: Thank goodness! Given the crazy driving culture of Dubai where accidents are commonplace and bumper riding is a standard, the thought of alcohol in the mix = total disaster.)

Now that my food and fashion questions are largely out of the way, it occurred to me that I should really research the deeper significance of Ramadan. After all this is a religious affair, not a celebration of diet and abundant fabric! According to Wikipedia:

The name “Ramadan” is the name of the 9th month; the word itself derived from an Arabic word for intense heat, scorched ground, and shortness of rations. It is considered the most venerated and blessed month of the Islamic year. Prayers, sawm (fasting), charity, and self-accountability are especially stressed at this time… The most prominent event of this month is the fasting (sawm) practiced by observant Muslims. Every day during the month of Ramadan, Muslims around the world get up before dawn to eat the Suhoor meal (the pre dawn meal) and perform their fajr prayer. They break their fast when the fourth prayer of the day, Maghribth thought and action is important. The fast is intended to be an exacting act of deep personal worship in which Muslims seek a raised level of closeness to God Almighty. The act of fasting is said to redirect the heart away from worldly activities, its purpose being to cleanse the inner soul and free it from harm…

Given that Ramadan is the holiest month of the Islamic calendar year (as it is believed that the Qur’an was revealed to Prophet Muhammad during this month), the mood around town is both festive and jovial. Melodious readings from the Qur’an can be heard all day as local mosques broadcast its holy words over loud speakers. In fact, I try and make it a point to go swimming at sunset so that as I swim, I can enjoy the sounds of the evening prayer… I just wish I understood what is being said!). In addition, fast-breaking tents have been set up around town and both supermarkets and household kitchens are filled with an abundance of locally harvested dates—the perfect food to break a day’s fast and segue into a celebratory meal.

So, two days in and an hour plus of Internet research later, I can most certainly say that my pre-Ramadan fears have been abated. In fact, I am rather excited to continue my studies of this holy month and hopefully take part in a local iftar meal or two (i.e., the meal where people meet with both family and friends to break their fast). Countless people (both Muslims and non-Muslims) have told me that Ramadan is their absolute favorite holiday of the year—a time to cleanse the body and mind and to focus on religion and family. This of course does not bode well for those of us looking for a job at the moment, as just prior to and during Ramadan, it is nearly impossible to get people to return your emails and phone calls. But alas, the holiday is also helping bring my priorities into perspective! So, given the reflective nature of the season, I will end this post with a letter to myself:

Dear A,

Ramadan Kareem! During this month of local celebrations, remember to be patient and to try and understand the history and logic behind the actions that go on around you. Try not to sneak food or water in public places and most certainly pay absolute attention to the road! Finally, take time to reflect and be thankful. And, as your boxing coach constantly reminds you, always strive to have “presence of mind,” for just like in boxing, you never know what is going to swing your way next.

A

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