Posts tagged Ramadan

Transitions

(To see more photos like the one above, see link at the bottom of this post.)

Today is the beginning of Eid al Fitr. As this article by Rasha Elass points out:

Eid al Fitr celebrations begin today following confirmation last night of the official sighting of the new moon, marking the end of Ramadan… According to Islamic tradition, the sighting of a new moon determines the end of Ramadan and start of a new month… Families who have been fasting during daylight hours for the holy month were to gather at Abu Dhabi mosques at 4.49am tomorrow for the dawn prayer. This is followed by the Eid prayer which, traditionally, takes place outdoors. Then families congregate for a day of feasts and celebration, as couples visit their parents and children receive gifts.

Based on my readings of local news, as well as information from more seasoned expats in the area, Dubai will be a festive place over the next three days as most people have the time off and will spend it in the company of family, friends, food and fireworks. While Eid signals a transition from the holy month of Ramadan back to a more “normal” tenth month of the Islamic calendar year, the holiday marks a transition in my Dubai development as well–from that of a pool girl to a working woman! Hurrah!

Over the last month Dubai has been a rather quiet place to exist in during the day since most food and coffee establishments were closed for Ramadan and because those fasting made it a point to stay inside (I don’t blame them! 100+ degree heat and no food/water does not equal a comfortable combo). Given that the pace of the city essentially slowed down to a crawl (or to a stop compared to NYC), I found myself spending more and more time at home, as opposed to on empty beaches or in nearly vacant shopping centers. While my husband worked exceedingly long hours with his business partners across North America, Europe, the Middle East and Russia, I on the other hand:

  • Spent copious amounts of time at the pool logging hours of sunshine, laps and thinking time.
  • Tried my hand at being a good housewife… Let’s just say that if washing clothes, ironing and mopping were subjects in college, I most certainly would not have made dean’s list!
  • Drove through the streets of Dubai like the best of this town’s cabbies! (Note: When I arrived I was petrified of driving having come off a ten year driving hiatus from being in NYC, Osaka and college. Now, on the other hand, I’m a driving diva. Watch out truck’s and buses, A’s Thrifty Honda Civic is on the road! … I can’t wait until I get my first paycheck so that I can buy my own set of wheels! $900/month to rent a tiny car is a bit steep… At least the gas is cheap: $15/tank.)
  • Returned to my classical music roots. I am now a member of the UAE Philharmonic… I hope my neighbors like string music because they’ve heard a lot of it between the hours of 3 and 5 over the last 4 weeks!

Feeling a bit more relaxed and adjusted to life in the desert, for better or for worse, I find myself experiencing another transition—that from the “honeymoon” stage of my time in Dubai to the “culture shock” phase. As this article on cultural adjustment points out:

Cross-cultural adjustment can be roughly divided into four phases: honeymoon, culture shock, recovery and adjustment. At the honeymoon stage, everything seems fascinating and new, and you may feel rather like a tourist. After some time, when you begin to actively participate in the daily life of the host country, you may start to notice discrepancies between your own behaviour and culture and that of host country nationals. Depending on the individual, this can lead to feelings of anxiety, uncertainty and frustration – an experience widely termed as culture shock, which is an integral and significant part of adapting to living and working in a new country…

While my blog thus far has painted a rather rosy picture of Dubai, there are aspects of life here that I find trying. By sharing these aspects, I don’t mean to complain, but rather to point out that life as an expat is not the 24-hour holiday some may think it is.

  • Time: Coming from a culture where “getting things done” was our daily mantra, scheduling meetings and appointments here is always an exercise in patience. Home repairmen never come the day they say they will and interviews often start an hour or two late.
  • Yes versus no: Like in Japan, people here find it very hard to say “no.” Therefore, I am constantly trying to figure out when “yes” really means “no.”
  • America: Between US Middle East foreign policy, the recent banking crisis and the entrance of Palin onto the greater political stage, I can’t exactly say Americans are heroes in this part of town. Being an expat often means clarifying to others that my views are not necessarily those of Washington or acting as if I’m British to avoid uncomfortable conversations all together (just kidding… well sort of!)
  • Men versus women: I am a woman in a man’s world and in a place where people view the distinction between men and women to extend far beyond biology. To work here, I have to have my husband’s official “permission.” To even see the apartment we are currently living in, I had to promise our broker I was married… the list goes on and on!
  • Censoring: Luckily I am near a free zone, so I have access to site’s like Flickr. But, the second I leave the area… Poof! No more Flickr, Skype, etc. Also, I find myself asking, “Why are local policies and efforts of the Sheik seemingly always received with such enthusiasm? Where are the dissenters?”

But alas… no need for too much cynicism or frustration to creep in! I am an optimist at heart and ready to take on the Dubai world of work suntanned and with a mind and spirit rearing to go!

To transitions!
A

PS As a result of getting many requests for photos of Dubai, I have posted a number of photos here. Enjoy!

add to del.icio.us : Digg it : Stumble It! : : post to facebook

Comments (10) »

Ramadan Kareem!

It’s the second day of Ramadan and I must admit that I was a bit nervous coming into the holiday. The thought of refraining from food and especially drink in Dubai’s115 degree heat is enough to make one faint just thinking about it. Furthermore, since women are supposed to dress and behave particularly conservatively during the holiday, for the past week I’ve had scary daymares of security guards reprimanding me for unintentional fashion faux pas… A definite novice to the local customs and practices that surround Ramadan, my head’s been a swirl with logistical questions:

  1. What does “conservative dress” really mean when the fashion victim at hand is not a Muslim?
  2. Can I drink water at the gym? Are my Lululemon leggings too fitted? Is a tank top a total no-go?
  3. What about my apartment’s pool? If it’s open, what exactly is respectable Ramadan swimming attire? Although not as scandalous as the string bikinis most women wear to sun around here, my Speedo for lap swimming isn’t exactly that conservative considering I often see women swimming in their abaya at the beach.
  4. While driving should I cover my head with a scarf or wear a long black sweater to avoid attention?
  5. Do I really have to fast?!

Two days in, based on observation and conversations with locals and expats, answers to the above questions are surfacing:

  1. A) Conservative dress for non-Muslims: Skirts at least knee length are fine (pants, even better!), sleeves at least to mid bicep work (beyond the elbow, superb!), sandals (no problem!). B) Dress for Muslim women: abaya (see images here). According to my Muslim friend S (name removed for privacy), while some women choose not to wear an abaya the rest of the year, during Ramadan more wear the garment in observance of the holy month. C) I don’t notice a change in the way men are dressing, but if you are curious about the local male dress, click here.
  2. The water at my gym is abundant… My boxing coach assured me that those who would be offended by the presence of the almighty H20 are most certainly not working out during daylight hours!
  3. My apartment’s pool appears to be a Ramadan-free zone or something of the like as yesterday was most certainly an all out two-piece parade. (I guess going down to the pool in sunglasses, a black jacket and pants was a bit of overkill on my part. But hey, no need to offend folks in the elevator!)
  4. As for driving, no special headgear is needed. That said, my recruitment consultant told me yesterday, one should avoid driving at all costs between the hours of 2 and 5pm. Because people leave work early and hungry during Ramadan, traffic and road rage are particularly prevalent.
  5. Mandatory fasting? Not a chance! For non-Muslims that is… But, it is best not to eat in public out of respect for local customs. In fact, it is rather difficult to eat in public during daylight hours as most restaurants are closed until sundown. Even Starbucks is sacrificing profits in honor of this special month! Oh, and if you are curious about alcohol… all the liquor shops are closed for the month (Note 1: In general, to drink alcohol at home in Dubai, expats need a liquor license. Once one is granted, they are given a specific ration in terms of how much can be purchased. Note 2: There is absolutely zero tolerance for drinking and driving here. If any alcohol is found in the driver in question’s bloodstream, punishment can be quite severe. Note 3: Thank goodness! Given the crazy driving culture of Dubai where accidents are commonplace and bumper riding is a standard, the thought of alcohol in the mix = total disaster.)

Now that my food and fashion questions are largely out of the way, it occurred to me that I should really research the deeper significance of Ramadan. After all this is a religious affair, not a celebration of diet and abundant fabric! According to Wikipedia:

The name “Ramadan” is the name of the 9th month; the word itself derived from an Arabic word for intense heat, scorched ground, and shortness of rations. It is considered the most venerated and blessed month of the Islamic year. Prayers, sawm (fasting), charity, and self-accountability are especially stressed at this time… The most prominent event of this month is the fasting (sawm) practiced by observant Muslims. Every day during the month of Ramadan, Muslims around the world get up before dawn to eat the Suhoor meal (the pre dawn meal) and perform their fajr prayer. They break their fast when the fourth prayer of the day, Maghribth thought and action is important. The fast is intended to be an exacting act of deep personal worship in which Muslims seek a raised level of closeness to God Almighty. The act of fasting is said to redirect the heart away from worldly activities, its purpose being to cleanse the inner soul and free it from harm…

Given that Ramadan is the holiest month of the Islamic calendar year (as it is believed that the Qur’an was revealed to Prophet Muhammad during this month), the mood around town is both festive and jovial. Melodious readings from the Qur’an can be heard all day as local mosques broadcast its holy words over loud speakers. In fact, I try and make it a point to go swimming at sunset so that as I swim, I can enjoy the sounds of the evening prayer… I just wish I understood what is being said!). In addition, fast-breaking tents have been set up around town and both supermarkets and household kitchens are filled with an abundance of locally harvested dates—the perfect food to break a day’s fast and segue into a celebratory meal.

So, two days in and an hour plus of Internet research later, I can most certainly say that my pre-Ramadan fears have been abated. In fact, I am rather excited to continue my studies of this holy month and hopefully take part in a local iftar meal or two (i.e., the meal where people meet with both family and friends to break their fast). Countless people (both Muslims and non-Muslims) have told me that Ramadan is their absolute favorite holiday of the year—a time to cleanse the body and mind and to focus on religion and family. This of course does not bode well for those of us looking for a job at the moment, as just prior to and during Ramadan, it is nearly impossible to get people to return your emails and phone calls. But alas, the holiday is also helping bring my priorities into perspective! So, given the reflective nature of the season, I will end this post with a letter to myself:

Dear A,

Ramadan Kareem! During this month of local celebrations, remember to be patient and to try and understand the history and logic behind the actions that go on around you. Try not to sneak food or water in public places and most certainly pay absolute attention to the road! Finally, take time to reflect and be thankful. And, as your boxing coach constantly reminds you, always strive to have “presence of mind,” for just like in boxing, you never know what is going to swing your way next.

A

add to del.icio.us : Digg it : Stumble It! : : post to facebook

Comments (7) »

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.